Base & Finished-Floor System

Self-Levelling Epoxy Flooring

A flowable resin slurry is poured onto a prepared slab at a controlled thickness, spread out, and then left to find its own level. It cures as one monolithic, genuinely flat plane — a finished floor in its own right, and the base that most decorative floors and many industrial floors are built on.

What self-levelling epoxy flooring is

A self-levelling floor is not a coating you roll on. It is a slurry — resin, hardener and graded mineral filler mixed on site — poured out onto the prepared slab, spread to a controlled thickness with a pin rake or notched trowel, and then worked with a spiked roller. From that point gravity and surface tension do the job: the material flows out, closes over the tool marks and settles into a level plane before it gels. What cures is one continuous, smooth, monolithic surface with no joints and no grout lines anywhere in it.

In the resin family it sits in the middle. A thin roller-applied coating suits light traffic and costs the least. A heavy-duty mortar or screed carries the most load, impact and chemical exposure and costs the most. A self-levelling slurry gives you real body and a flat surface without paying screed prices — which is why it is the most commonly specified system we install, both as the visible floor and as the layer underneath a decorative one.

Because it does two jobs, it gets specified two ways. Sometimes you want it as the finish: a plain, calm, uniform colour in satin or gloss, with the topcoat setting the abrasion, chemical and UV performance. Sometimes you want it as the base: most metallic and 3D floors are built on a self-levelling body coat, because the decorative layers above it only look right on a floor that is already flat.

Why flatness is worth paying for

Flatness is the one property people underestimate until they are standing on the finished floor. It matters for three separate reasons, and they are worth separating.

Wheels and racking. A dished or wavy slab is a nuisance the moment anything rolls across it. Trolleys pull to one side, pallet trucks bind where the level changes, castors on office chairs and hospital beds catch, and racking uprights have to be packed and re-shimmed to stand plumb. In a warehouse aisle, flatness is a working condition, not a finish.

Reflections. A gloss or satin resin floor behaves like a long, low mirror. It reflects the line of your ceiling lights, your glazing, your shelving. Any undulation in the slab turns that straight reflected line into a visible wave — and once a client has seen the wave they will never stop seeing it. Flattening the floor is what keeps the reflection honest.

Clear coats magnify everything. This is the one that catches people out. On a decorative floor the clear resin above the design layer pools very slightly deeper in the low spots, so those areas read darker and glossier than the high spots. An out-of-flat base does not stay hidden under a metallic or 3D floor — it becomes a pattern you did not ask for and cannot remove. If the top of your floor is going to be decorative, the base has to be right first.

Priming, pinholes and outgassing

Concrete is porous, and those pores are full of air. If the slab is warming up while the resin is still liquid — morning sun on a roller shutter, heating coming on, or simply the heat the curing resin generates itself — that air expands and pushes up through the wet material, leaving pinholes and small craters across an otherwise perfect floor. It is the most common cosmetic failure on a self-levelling pour, and it is avoidable.

Control comes from three things done properly. First, priming: a penetrating primer seals the pore structure, and on an open or thirsty slab that means a second coat, sometimes blinded with fine sand to give the slurry something to key into. Second, timing: we pour when the slab temperature is stable or falling rather than climbing. Third, spiked rolling, which releases entrapped air while the material is still open enough to close behind it.

Moisture is assessed before any of that. Epoxy has low permeability, so vapour rising through a slab has nowhere to go and can debond or blister a floor from underneath. In-situ relative humidity probes and calcium-chloride vapour-emission testing are the industry concepts here, and the principle is simple: where moisture is present we specify a moisture-tolerant primer or barrier system so the floor performs long term. This assessment is part of every free site inspection.

Edges, joints and falls

A self-levelling floor finds its own level, which also means it finds the level of anywhere it can run to. Perimeters, door thresholds, stair heads, lift openings and service penetrations all have to be closed or trimmed before the pour, and day-work edges have to be planned so that the join between bays lands where it will not be seen — at a doorway, a column line or a change of level.

Movement joints are the other detail that separates a floor that lasts from one that cracks in its first year. A live joint in the slab has to be carried up through the resin, not bridged by it. Bridge it and the slab will move anyway, and the crack will telegraph straight through the finish. Where there is an existing fall to a drain, levelling the floor flat would kill the drainage, so in wash areas we lay to follow the fall rather than to remove it.

Who self-levelling epoxy is for

This is the right system when what you want is a flat, plain, hard-working surface rather than a decorative one-off. It is a good fit when:

  • You want a calm, uniform colour rather than a pattern that draws the eye
  • Trolleys, pallet trucks, castors or racking need a genuinely flat plane to work on
  • You are building a metallic, marble or 3D floor and need a true base under it
  • The area is large and open, so the material can flow out properly in continuous bays
  • You want more body than a thin coating without the cost of a heavy-duty screed
  • The slab is structurally sound and already reasonably close to level

It is the wrong system when:

  • The floor gets wet in normal use and grip is the priority — specify an anti-slip broadcast system instead
  • The slab is badly out of level or falling the wrong way — that is grinding or screeding work first, and it is separate
  • You want the floor to be the feature of the room — a metallic floor does that, this one deliberately does not
  • Dropped tooling, steel wheels, thermal shock or aggressive washdown are involved — that needs an industrial screed

Where it is used

Self-levelling floors go into the spaces where flatness, cleanability and a quiet appearance all matter at once:

  • Showrooms and retail floors — one uninterrupted plane under the product, with a reflection that stays straight across the length of the room.
  • Warehouses and logistics areas — aisles that pallet trucks and order pickers can run on, with line marking applied over the cured floor.
  • Production and assembly areas — a cleanable, monolithic surface with no joints for swarf, dust or washdown water to collect in.
  • Offices and open-plan fit-outs — a seamless floor that takes castors, carries no grout lines and photographs well in a finished space.
  • Clinics, laboratories and treatment rooms — hygienic, easy-to-sterilise surfaces suitable for clinical environments, coved up the wall where a skirting joint is not wanted.
  • As the base for decorative work — the flat body coat under metallic, marble and 3D systems, which is where a large share of ours are poured.
  • Basements and covered parking — flat bays with a slip-resistant finish specified separately on the ramps and turning circles.

We have offices in all major cities and provide service all over Pakistan. If the floor is part of a fit-out, tell us early — a self-levelling pour needs the wet trades finished, the space closed up and the temperature reasonably stable, and those three things are easier to arrange in a programme than to retrofit into one.

Appearance

What A Levelled Floor Actually Looks Like

Illustrative references for the flatness, colour and sheen levels we build. Colour is chosen from a sample before we pour. Tap any image to view it larger.

Advantages

Why Clients Specify Self-Levelling

The benefits here are practical rather than visual. This is the system people choose when the floor has to work, not perform.

  • A genuinely flat plane. The material levels itself, so you are not relying on a trowel hand to keep a large floor true.
  • No joints, no grout. One continuous surface with nowhere for dust, swarf or water to collect.
  • Real body, not a film. More material than a roller coating means better wear and impact performance under trolley and foot traffic.
  • Fast over large areas. A pour covers ground far quicker than hand-applied work once the preparation is done.
  • A neutral base for anything. Decorative layers, line marking, a slip-resistant topcoat or a UV-stable topcoat all sit happily on top.
  • Coved edges available where you want the floor to turn up the wall with no skirting joint to clean around.
  • Often installable over a sound existing floor once it has been mechanically prepared, which saves demolition and debris removal.
Honest Limitations

What Self-Levelling Will Not Do

These are the conversations we have on site before anyone commits. None of them rule the system out — but you should hear them from us rather than find them out after the pour.

  • It levels, it does not structurally repair. The name promises more than the material delivers. A slab that is badly out of level, dished across the middle or falling in the wrong direction has to be corrected first — high spots ground off, low areas screeded up. That is real work with its own cost, and we price it as its own line on the quotation rather than burying it in a rate per sqft.
  • It needs a sound, dry, contaminant-free base. Weak concrete, laitance, old tile adhesive, wax, oil and silicone all have to come off mechanically before anything is poured. Resin bonds to what you prepare, not to what you cover — and surface preparation is the single biggest factor in whether a resin floor succeeds.
  • Deep local dips must be filled before pouring. The pour is a controlled thickness, not an unlimited one. Filling a deep hollow with levelling slurry means paying resin prices for work a patching mortar should have done, and a thick local mass generates more heat as it cures. We fill first, then pour.
  • Thickness is a specification decision. Thicker is not automatically better — it is more material, more cost and more added height at every threshold. The build-up is specified against your traffic, your substrate and the chemical exposure, and we will tell you when a thinner system is the sensible answer.
  • Smooth means slippery when wet. A flat gloss floor with water, soap or oil on it is a hazard, and no topcoat changes that on its own. Wet areas should be specified with a slip-resistant finish instead — which is, by definition, less flat and less mirror-like. That is a real trade-off and you get to make the call.
  • Pinholes and craters are a genuine risk. On a porous or warming slab, air pushing out of the concrete can leave a rash of tiny holes in the surface. Priming, pour timing and spiked rolling are how we manage it, and a slab that has been poorly prepared makes it much more likely.
  • Large areas are poured in bays. A floor beyond a certain size cannot be one continuous pour within the working life of the material. We plan bay lines to land at doorways, columns or changes of level so the joins read as deliberate.
One more thing worth knowing. Most resin floor cracking originates in the concrete substrate rather than in the resin. A levelled floor is thin relative to the slab under it, so if that slab moves, the floor will show it. We assess the slab, repair cracks, treat live joints as live and check for rising moisture before we quote — and we will tell you plainly if we think the substrate is the real problem.
Installation

How A Levelled Floor Is Actually Poured

Almost everything that decides the quality of a self-levelling floor happens before any resin comes out of a tin. This is the sequence, every time.

  1. Site inspection, level survey and moisture assessment

    We measure the area, take levels to see how far out the slab actually is, check the substrate for rising moisture and discuss what the floor has to carry. Where moisture is present we specify a moisture-tolerant primer or barrier system so the floor performs long term.

  2. Mechanical preparation

    Diamond grinding or shot blasting opens the slab so the resin can bond, and takes off laitance, coatings and contamination. No resin goes over dust or over a floor that has not been assessed.

  3. High spot removal and crack repair

    High areas are ground down, cracks are cut out, filled and consolidated, and joints are treated according to whether they need to stay live.

  4. Patching and local fill

    Deep dips, spalled edges and old fixing holes are filled with a repair mortar so the pour that follows is levelling, not rebuilding.

  5. Priming, and blinding where needed

    A penetrating primer seals the pores and creates the bond the system depends on. On open or thirsty slabs a second coat goes on, sometimes blinded with fine sand to give the slurry a key.

  6. Edge preparation and bay setting-out

    Perimeters, thresholds, drains and penetrations are closed or trimmed, and bay lines are set out where the joins will not be seen.

  7. Mixing and pouring

    Part A and Part B are mixed in the specified ratio for the specified time — under-mixing is a failure, and so is over-mixing air into the material. It is then poured out and spread to thickness with a pin rake.

  8. Spiked rolling

    The wet surface is spike-rolled to release entrapped air and help the material flow out evenly, while it is still open enough to close behind the roller.

  9. Topcoat and detailing

    Once the body has cured, the protective topcoat sets gloss level, abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, slip resistance and UV stability. Coving, thresholds and line marking are finished at this stage.

  10. Cure, inspect, hand over

    The floor cures to a return-to-service time we confirm for your specific system. We walk the finished floor with you and hand over the written warranty.

Budget

What Moves The Price Of A Levelled Floor

Two rooms of the same size can carry very different numbers, and almost all of the difference is in the slab rather than in the resin. These are the factors that actually change your quotation.

Cost factor Why it moves the price What we do about it
How far out of level the slab is Grinding down high spots or screeding up low areas is separate work before the pour, and it is the single biggest variable on this system. Levels are taken at the free inspection and the correction is priced as its own line.
Slab condition and contamination Cracks, laitance, old adhesive, oil or a weak surface all add preparation hours before any resin goes down. Assessed on site and set out item by item rather than absorbed into the rate.
Area and layout Rate per sqft falls as area grows. Corridors, small rooms and broken-up spaces cost more per sqft than one open floor the material can flow across. We measure on site rather than working from a drawing.
Specified thickness Thickness is chosen against traffic and substrate, and it is the main driver of material volume. Specified for the loads you actually have, not sold as a package.
Preparation method Diamond grinding, shot blasting and dust extraction have different costs and different site impacts. Chosen for your substrate and for whether the building stays occupied.
Topcoat specification UV-stable, higher-abrasion and slip-resistant topcoats cost more than a standard clear coat. Recommended against sunlight, footfall, chemicals and whether the area gets wet.
Edges, joints and drains Coving, thresholds, stair nosings, drains, columns and live movement joints are slow, hand-worked details. Counted and listed, so nothing appears as an extra later.
Access and working hours Upper floors without a lift, live retail units and night-only working all add time, and a pour cannot be paused halfway. Programmed with you so the space is out of use for the shortest possible period.
Location Where a site needs a crew to travel, mobilisation is included in the quotation. Scheduled as a single continuous mobilisation wherever possible.
Indicative only. Our resin flooring starts from Rs. 570 per sqft for a straightforward solid-colour or self-levelling floor. Where the slab needs levelling correction, extra thickness or a specialist topcoat, the figure moves — and it moves on the preparation far more often than on the resin. The number that matters comes in writing after a free site inspection. You can also try the budget calculator for a planning range.
Programme

How Long It Takes On Site

For a single room or bay, plan on roughly three to five working days on site. Preparation and repair usually take the first day or two — longer if the levels need correcting — priming follows, the pour itself is often a single morning, and the topcoat goes on after the body has cured. Each coat has to go down inside the recoat window of the one below it, so the sequence cannot be compressed by putting more people on the job.

Larger commercial and industrial floors are phased so parts of your site stay usable. A warehouse is normally programmed aisle by aisle or bay by bay, with the break lines agreed in advance. One thing to plan around: a bay has to be poured in one continuous operation, so we need the space clear, closed and free of foot traffic for that window.

Return-to-service time is system-specific. Light foot traffic comes back well before wheeled loads, racking installation, heavy furniture or cleaning chemicals are allowed on the floor, and warm weather cures faster than cold. We do not quote one universal number: the exact foot-traffic and full-service times for your build-up are confirmed in your quotation and repeated at handover.

Sequence the pour late in the fit-out. A self-levelling floor wants the wet trades finished, the building closed up and the temperature reasonably stable. Bring us in at that point and you avoid protecting a brand-new floor through somebody else's dusty work.
Maintenance

Keeping It Flat And Clean

A smooth monolithic floor is about as easy to clean as a floor gets — there is nothing to scrub grout out of. What dulls it is grit. Almost all of the fine scratching on a levelled floor comes from sand and dust being walked or wheeled across it, not from the traffic itself.

  • Dust mop or sweep daily in busy areas, more often near entrances and shutter doors
  • Damp mop or scrub with a pH-neutral cleaner and clean water; change the water before it turns grey
  • Use walk-off matting at every external door — the single most effective thing you can do
  • Keep castors and wheels clean; a wheel with grit embedded in it works like a cutting tool
  • Felt pads under furniture legs, and lift rather than drag anything heavy
  • Wipe spills reasonably promptly, especially anything strongly acidic or solvent-based
  • No abrasive powders, scouring pads or wire wool
  • No steam cleaners or strong solvents on the topcoat

When the sheen eventually flattens in the main traffic lines, the topcoat can be abraded and re-coated. That refreshes the surface without touching the levelled body underneath, and it costs a fraction of a new floor. We will tell you honestly when a floor is ready for it — and when it is not yet worth doing.

Specification

Colours And Finish Options

The body colour is a solid, uniform tone — light and mid greys, charcoal, beige, off-white, blue and green families are the usual choices. What you select separately is the topcoat, and that is where the performance of the floor is decided.

High gloss

Maximum light reflection, which is why showrooms ask for it. It also shows dust, footprints and fine scratching most clearly, and it is the finish that flatters flatness or exposes the lack of it.

Satin or matt

A softer sheen that hides day-to-day marking far better and takes the glare out of a large open space. The pragmatic choice for offices, warehouses and production areas.

Slip-resistant topcoat

A fine additive broadcast into the final coat for entrances, wash areas and anywhere that gets water on it. It reduces the smoothness slightly, which is the honest trade for a safer surface. Heavily wetted areas should use a full anti-slip system instead.

UV-stable topcoat

Specified where the floor sits under glazing, a skylight or an open shutter, using a polyurethane or polyaspartic topcoat to hold the colour in sunlit strips. It also improves abrasion resistance.

Coved edges Line marking and bay markings Threshold and stair detailing Live joint detailing Base layer for decorative systems
Why 3D Master Epoxy

Fourteen Years Of Getting The Base Right

We have been installing resin floors since 2012 and have completed more than 1,200 floors, with offices in all major cities and service all over Pakistan. A self-levelling pour looks simple from the outside, which is exactly why it goes wrong so often: the levels, the primer and the pour window are all decided before anyone sees a finished floor, and our experienced installation teams get those decisions right in the same order every time.

Every project starts with a free site inspection: we measure, take levels, assess the slab, check for rising moisture and tell you what the floor genuinely needs — including when the honest answer is that the concrete has to be dealt with first. Then you get a fixed written quotation with the system, the thickness, the topcoat and the return-to-service times set out in it.

Lifetime warranty on workmanship & materials. We stand behind our floors for life. Our lifetime warranty covers workmanship and material defects — if the floor fails because of our installation or the materials we used, we repair it free of charge, with no time limit. Damage from misuse, chemical exposure outside the specified system, structural movement, or moisture rising through the slab is assessed separately. Full warranty terms are provided in writing with every project.

Find out what your slab actually needs

Tell us the city, roughly how big the area is and what will be running across the floor. We will inspect it and take levels free of charge, then come back with a fixed written quotation.

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