Epoxy Flooring FAQs

Our resin flooring starts from around Rs. 570 per square foot for a straightforward solid-colour or self-levelling floor. Treat that as an indicative figure, not a quotation.

Four things move the number more than anything else: the condition of your slab (cracks, unevenness, old adhesive and weak concrete all add preparation hours before any resin goes down), the total area (rate per square foot falls as area grows, and small broken-up rooms cost more per square foot than one open floor), the system specified (a thin coating uses far less material than a high-build screed) and the finish (a metallic, marble-effect or custom 3D floor carries a hand-worked pattern stage that a plain colour does not).

We do not price a floor over the phone. After a free site inspection you get a fixed written quotation setting out the preparation, the system, the topcoat and the return-to-service times, with the preparation priced as its own line so you can see exactly what you are paying for.

For a typical single room, plan on three to five working days on site. Preparation and priming usually take the first day, the body coat the next, then the design layer, the clear build coats and the protective topcoat.

That sequence cannot be compressed by putting more people on the job. Each coat has to go down inside the recoat window of the layer below, and those windows are set by the material, not by the crew size. Decorative work adds a few days beforehand for artwork or sample-panel sign-off.

Larger commercial and industrial floors are phased section by section so parts of your site stay in use, with break lines agreed in advance at doorways, columns or changes of level. Return-to-service time is system-specific — light foot traffic comes back well before heavy furniture, wheeled loads or cleaning chemicals are allowed on the floor, and warm weather cures faster than cold. We confirm the exact times for your build-up in the quotation and repeat them at handover.

Longer than most people expect when it is specified and installed properly, and disappointingly short when it is not. We will not quote you a single number of years, because the honest answer depends on four things: whether the system was specified for the actual traffic, whether the slab was properly prepared and assessed for moisture, whether the topcoat suits the exposure (abrasion, chemicals, sunlight), and whether the floor is maintained — mainly keeping grit off it.

Surface preparation is the single biggest factor. A decorative coating laid over dust, laitance or a damp slab can start debonding within a year, while the same product over a diamond-ground, primed and assessed slab keeps performing for many years of normal use. Most resin floor cracking also originates in the concrete substrate rather than in the resin, which is why we repair cracks before we coat rather than after.

Rather than promise a lifespan, we stand behind the work: read what our lifetime warranty on workmanship and materials covers. Practical wear — the gloss flattening in the main walking lines after years of traffic — is normally handled by abrading and re-coating the topcoat, not by replacing the floor.

Our epoxy floors cure into one continuous surface with no joints, no grout lines and nowhere for water to seep through. Spills, mopping and washdowns are handled easily — ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, commercial kitchens and wash areas.

Before installation we assess the slab for rising moisture. Where moisture is present we specify a moisture-tolerant primer or barrier system so the floor performs long term. This assessment is part of every free site inspection.

We stand behind our floors for life. Our lifetime warranty covers workmanship and material defects — if the floor fails because of our installation or the materials we used, we repair it free of charge, with no time limit. Damage from misuse, chemical exposure outside the specified system, structural movement, or moisture rising through the slab is assessed separately. Full warranty terms are provided in writing with every project.

In plain terms: the parts of the floor we control, we own. Read the full warranty before you commit, and keep the written copy we hand over at the end of the job — it names the system that was installed, which is what any future assessment works from.

Day to day it is a dust mop, then a damp mop with a pH-neutral cleaner and clean water — change the water before it turns grey, or you are just moving grit around. In busy commercial spaces that means daily, and more often near entrances.

The single most effective thing you can do is put walk-off matting at every external door. Almost all of the fine scratching on a gloss floor comes from sand and dust being walked across it, not from the traffic itself. Felt pads under chair and table legs, and lifting furniture instead of dragging it, do most of the rest.

Avoid abrasive powders, scouring pads and wire wool, and keep steam cleaners and strong solvents off the topcoat. Wipe spills reasonably promptly, particularly anything strongly acidic or solvent-based. When the gloss eventually flattens along the main walking lines, the topcoat can be abraded and re-coated — the design layer underneath is untouched, and it costs a fraction of a new floor.

Yes, and that is one of the real advantages of a resin floor over tile or stone. A scratch, chip or burn is handled as a spot repair: the damaged area is cut back, mechanically prepared, filled and re-coated, then blended into the surrounding surface. Where a whole floor has dulled or scuffed in the traffic lanes, we abrade the topcoat and apply a fresh coat across the area — a recoat rather than a replacement.

On a plain solid colour, a competent repair is usually very hard to see. On metallic and marble-effect floors you should know the honest limit: the pattern is created by pigment moving as the resin levels, so it cannot be reproduced exactly. We match the colour family and the technique and blend the repair into the surrounding movement. On a busy pattern it is normally difficult to find — but we will not claim it becomes invisible.

This is also why we keep a written record of the system and colours installed on every project, so a repair years later starts from the right materials.

Yes. Custom work covers 3D imagery, metallic colour directions, marble veining, logos, colour blocking, borders and safety-line layouts for industrial floors.

The approval sequence is deliberate, because a floor is a large, permanent surface. First we look at the room, the lighting and the sightline people will actually see the floor from — an image that works on a screen can read badly when it is walked on from the wrong end. Then we agree the artwork or colour direction. Then we set scale and orientation so nothing important lands under a sofa, a reception desk or a doorway.

For a 3D floor you approve the image at the correct print scale before anything is ordered. For metallic and marble we make sample panels in your colours and view them under your own lighting, next to your own walls. Nothing is poured until that direction is signed off in writing — and for metallic or marble the sign-off records that the installed floor follows the panel direction rather than copying it pixel for pixel.

Yes — provided the system is specified for the environment rather than chosen for the way it looks. Epoxy is a family of resin systems, not one product. Thin coatings suit light traffic, self-levelling slurries sit in the middle, and mortars and screeds are specified where forklift loads, impact, thermal shock or chemical exposure demand more material.

Performance depends on the substrate, the surface preparation, the system specified, the thickness, the traffic, the chemical exposure, the temperature and the UV exposure. That is why a showroom and a factory get different floors even though both are "epoxy".

For showrooms, offices, restaurants and clinics we usually specify a commercial system with a hard-wearing topcoat that still photographs well. For factories, warehouses and workshops we specify an industrial build-up and programme the work around your production schedule, often in phases or over weekends. Garages and parking decks are a separate case again, because tyre marking and turning loads behave differently from foot traffic.

Smooth high-gloss resin is slippery when wet, in exactly the same way polished stone or glazed tile is. Anyone who tells you otherwise is selling rather than advising. Slip resistance is not a property of the resin itself — it comes from the finish specified on top of it.

For entrances, bathrooms, kitchens, ramps, wash bays and wet production areas we specify a slip-resistant finish: either a fine additive dispersed into the final coat, which barely changes the look, or a broadcast aggregate for a heavier, deliberately textured surface.

The trade-off is worth understanding before you choose. The more grip you build into a surface, the more texture there is for dirt to sit in, so it takes more effort to mop and the mirror-like reflection is reduced. We match the level of texture to each area rather than applying one finish everywhere — a textured entrance and wet room with a smoother lounge floor is a very common specification.

We have offices in all major cities and provide service all over Pakistan — including Rawalpindi, Karachi, Faisalabad, Multan, Gujranwala, Sialkot and Peshawar.

See epoxy flooring in Islamabad or epoxy flooring in Lahore. Wherever you are, the contact is the same number. Where a site needs a travelling crew, the work is planned as a single continuous mobilisation so a crew arrives, prepares, installs and finishes without gaps.

Send your location and roughly how big the area is and we will confirm scheduling. All contacts go to one number, +92 331 2969819.

Often yes, and when it works it saves you the demolition, the debris and several days of programme. Three conditions have to be met: the tiles must be sound and well bonded, the surface must be mechanically prepared — diamond grinding to remove the glaze and open the surface so resin can key to it — and the grout lines have to be filled and levelled so they do not telegraph through the finished floor.

The deal-breaker is hollow tiles. We tap the floor across the area and listen: anything drummy or hollow-sounding has to come up, because a resin floor bonded to a tile that is itself loose will fail at that tile, not at the resin. Loose or cracked tiles are removed and the void made good before anything else happens.

We also check what is under the tiles. An old bathroom or kitchen floor can hide a damp slab, and rising moisture is a leading cause of resin floor failure, so the moisture assessment matters more on a tiled overlay than almost anywhere else. We confirm what is possible during the inspection rather than promising it in advance.

Fine metallic mineral pigments are dispersed into clear or lightly tinted resin. While that resin is still liquid and levelling itself, the pigments drift, collide and separate — so pearl bands, lava veins and pools of colour end up sitting at different levels inside the resin rather than printed on top of it. That is why the pattern appears to move as you walk across it: you are looking through the material.

Every pour is unique because pigment movement is governed by how much resin is on the floor, how it is spread, the room temperature, the solvent misting and heat work the installer uses, and how the material behaves in the last few minutes before it gels. Those variables can be steered with real skill; they cannot be repeated exactly.

We treat that as the point of the system rather than a defect, and we are straight about what it means: large floors will show variation between pours, and a future repair blends rather than matches invisibly. You approve a colour direction from sample panels made in your own lighting — read the detail on the metallic epoxy flooring page.

It takes under an hour in most homes and there is no charge and no obligation. Message us your city, the rough area and what the space is used for, and we book a visit inside our working hours of Monday to Saturday, 9AM to 6PM PKT.

On site we measure the actual area rather than working from a drawing, look at the existing floor and its condition, check for cracks, unevenness, old adhesive and weak or contaminated concrete, assess the slab for rising moisture, look at the lighting and the sightlines if the floor is decorative, and talk through traffic, chemicals, wet areas and how long you can have the space out of use.

You then get a fixed written quotation that names the preparation, the system, the thickness class, the topcoat, the slip-resistance level and the return-to-service times, with preparation priced as its own line. If we think your slab is the real problem, or that a cheaper system would serve you better, we say so at the inspection rather than after you have paid a deposit. Request an inspection to get started.

Once the resin has fully cured it is an inert, solid plastic surface — the chemical reaction between the two components is finished and there is nothing left to give off. Normal family use, bare feet, crawling babies and pets are all fine on a cured floor.

The seamless build-up helps in a household too: there is no grout and no joints to trap dirt, spilt food or pet hair, so the whole floor cleans with a mop rather than a brush and a grout scrubber. Dust does not collect in lines across the room, which is worth something in a house with dust allergies.

Two practical points. During installation and the early part of curing the area must be kept clear of children and pets and kept ventilated — we programme that with you and tell you when each room can be used again. And a smooth gloss floor is slippery when wet, so if you have small children or older relatives, ask us for a slip-resistant finish in bathrooms, kitchens and entrances.

Yes, it can. Resin is hard-wearing but it is not a scratch-proof material, and we would rather you heard that from us than discovered it with a dining chair. Abrasion resistance is set mainly by the topcoat: a harder polyurethane or polyaspartic topcoat resists abrasion better than a standard clear coat, which is why we recommend one for busy commercial areas.

What you actually see depends as much on the finish as on the damage. A dark, high-gloss floor shows every fine scratch, footprint and speck of dust; a mid-tone satin finish or a patterned metallic hides the same wear almost completely. If the room is busy and you do not want to be cleaning daily, that choice matters more than any product claim.

Most scratching is preventable. Walk-off matting at external doors stops the grit that causes it, felt pads under furniture legs stop point damage, and lifting rather than dragging heavy items stops the deep marks. Where a floor does eventually scuff across the traffic lanes, the topcoat is abraded and re-coated without disturbing the design layer.

There is a noticeable resin smell while the coats are going down and during the early part of curing. It varies with the system — some topcoats and any solvent misting used on decorative work are stronger than the body coat — and it fades as the material cures.

We manage it with ventilation: windows and doors open where possible, fans set to move air out of the space rather than around it, and the work sequenced so the smell is not sitting in occupied rooms. In an occupied house we normally do one room or one zone at a time so the family can keep living upstairs or in the other half of the house. In offices, restaurants and clinics we often work evenings, weekends or a shutdown period.

During installation and early curing the area should be kept clear of children, pets and anyone with respiratory sensitivity, and we tell you exactly when each area can be reoccupied. Once the floor has cured there is no lingering smell.

It can, but it needs the right specification and honest expectations. Standard epoxy can amber — shift towards yellow — in direct sunlight. UV stability comes from the topcoat, so for anything exposed we specify a UV-stable polyurethane or polyaspartic topcoat over the epoxy build-up. Without that topcoat in the specification, expect the colour to move over time in the sunlit strip.

Covered and semi-covered areas perform better: basement and covered parking, canopied entrances, verandas, corridors and covered loading bays are all good candidates. Fully exposed terraces, driveways and roof decks are harder work — they take direct sun, rain, and significant day-to-night temperature swing, and thermal movement in the substrate below has to be accommodated.

Outdoor surfaces also get wet, so a slip-resistant finish is not optional there. Performance is system-specific in every case: tell us where the area is, how much direct sun it takes and what drives or walks on it, and we will tell you at the inspection whether resin is the right answer or whether you would be better served by another surface.

We accept cash, bank transfer, JazzCash and Easypaisa. Whatever is easiest for you is fine with us.

Payments are milestone based rather than paid in full up front: a deposit to confirm the booking and order materials for your specific system, a stage payment as the installation work progresses, and the balance on completion once you have walked the finished floor with us and are satisfied with it.

The milestones, the amounts and the dates are written into your quotation before anything is signed, so there are no surprises mid-project. Ask us about the schedule at the inspection if you need it structured around a particular month or a fit-out budget release.

A 3D floor is a high-resolution printed image installed under clear resin. The image goes down onto the cured body coat, then clear build coats are poured over the top of it.

The depth you see is real optics, not a trick of the artwork. Light entering the clear resin refracts — it bends and slows as it passes through a denser material — and reflects off the image plane below before it reaches your eye. Because the image sits several millimetres beneath the surface you are focusing through a thickness of glass-like material, and the brain reads that separation as physical depth. Move across the room and the parallax shifts slightly, which reinforces the illusion. The thicker the clear build and the better the gloss, the stronger the effect.

This is why the source image, its print scale and the viewing direction all have to be agreed before installation, and why the clear coats are the part of the job we will not rush. The full sequence is on the 3D epoxy flooring page.